Forgotten Nepal-China spinach diplomacy
For lovers of Chinese cuisine, whether it’s the Sichuanese hotpot or Lanzhou noodles, spinach remains an integral part of most dishes. Yet little did we knew that spinach, called Bōcài (菠菜) in Mandarin, was introduced in China from Nepal during the Tang Dynasty (618-906 A.D.).
The introduction of spinach from Nepal to China is perhaps one of the most widely available general knowledge on the Chinese internet when conversing about vegetables in China. Text books on Chinese Language taught to foreign students studying Mandarin and preparing for university in China have included that the not only did spinach come from Nepal but even the “Bōcài” is a loan word. Spinach was gifted in seeds by Narendra Dev, a Licchavi king who reigned from 641-680, to Emperor Taizong of Tang.
However, it is worth noting that spinach wasn’t originally from Nepal but was instead brought from the west, potentially Persia. Initially, spinach in Chinese, “Bōcài”, was called bōsī cǎo（波斯草） or bō léng cài（波棱菜), possibly translating to Persian grass or Persian cabbage respectively. Only later was it is called bōcài (菠菜).
Records of spinach as a gift from Nepal is found in “Táng huì yào”(《唐会要》):
"尼波罗国献波棱菜, 类红蓝, 实如蒺藜。火熟之能益食味, 即此也。"
Pinyin: Ní bō luó guó xiàn bō léng cài, lèi hóng lán, shí rú jílí. Huǒ shú zhī néng yì shíwèi, jí cǐ yě.
*Attempted translation: The Kingdom of Nepal presented spinach, red and blue like thistles. Cooking in fire can improve the taste.
We also learn that Nepal, now named Ní bó ěr （尼泊尔）, was once “Ní bō luó guó” (尼波罗国). Berthold Laufer’s detailed historical anthropological works on China-Iran commodities and cultural exchange published in 1919 mentions this. Laufer mentions that Táng huì yào contains perhaps the first major datable mention of vegetables in Chinese records. This record also describes the taste of spinach bought from Nepal this way: “Well cooked, it makes good eating and savory”. Laufer interestingly argues that if the plant was thought of as a novelty by the Chinese during the Tang dynasty, it also must have been the same for Nepal in that period. Otherwise, Nepali people wouldn’t consider it worthy of being sent as a gift to China.
The record also states the red roots of the spinach and that the taste of the vegetable is enhanced when “cooked in fire”. Another similar mention is found in “Xīn táng shū-xīyù chuán”《新唐书-西域传》 recorded in 647 A.D.
“Běi hù lù·wèng cài” (《北户录·蕹菜》) from the Tang Dynasty notes that spinach was sent from Nepal with an anecdote like introduction as “vegetable from Buddha’s soil”.
“国初建达国献佛土菜，泥婆国献波稜菜。”
Pinyin: Guó chū jiàn dá guó xiàn fó tǔ cài, ní pó guó xiàn bō léng cài.”
*Attempted translation: “At the beginning of the establishment of country, presented vegetable from Buddha/Buddhist soil, Nepal presented spinach”
New to the country, spinach became a luxury only relished by the emperor and those close to him. Spinach was initially consumed as a form of herbal medicine. Taoists experimenting with herbal medicine would often enjoy spinach as it would relieve any discomfort caused by a lousy experiment with herbal plans. Even emperor Taizong, who was exploring immortality through herbal medicine became fond of spinach. However, it was not only Taizong who loved the vegetable.
There is a particular story of Emperor Taizong and his minister, Wei Zheng, who was known to be opinionated and loquacious. Taizong had held a banquet and knowing that when Wei enters, he would start voicing his opinions, Taizong, who was in a mood to joke, gathered ideas to annoy Wei. One of the ministers suggested to play with Wei using a plate of spinach. Taizong did accordingly. Taizong convened the meeting by asking Wei Zheng to speak freely and as much as he wants. Distracted by the spinach, Wei Zheng didn’t pay attention to his words which was repetitive of his previous opinions and when the emperor asked for something fresh and new, he blurted “This spinach is quite fresh….” Taizong sarcastically announces that that today’s dishes don’t seem to be of Wei’s palette so, orders to remove it all but Wei desperate to eat spinach hurriedly requests not to take the dishes away which made the entire room of officials laugh. Taizong, satisfied with pranking Wei, allowed everyone to enjoy the meal first and then talk administration later.
Spinach’s popularity further grew even after the Tang Dynasty. Spinach’s popularity further grew even after the Tang Dynasty. “Tàipíng yù lǎn”(《太平御览》,a record from of the Song Dynasty on the events during Tang Dynasty rephrases the original records in “Táng huì yào”(《唐会要》about the spinach gift from Nepal.
《太平御览》卷九八〇引《唐书》
“太宗时，尼婆罗国献波稜菜，叶似红蓝，实如蒺蔾，火熟之，能益食味。”
Pinyin：Tàizōng shí, ní póluó guó xiàn bō léng cài, yè shì hóng lán, shí rú jílí, huǒ shú zhī, néng yì shíwèi.
*Attempted Translation: During the time of Emperor Taizong, Nepal presented spinach, leaves seem red and blue, like thistles, cooking in fire can improve the taste.
Another record, “Mèng liáng lù”(《梦梁录》) from the Song Dynasty also indicates that spinach was already used as an ingredient in making steamed buns along with other flavors such as bamboo shoot and ginger.
《梦梁录》
“笋丝馒头、裹蒸馒头、菠菜果子馒头、七宝酸馅、姜糖辣馅、糖馅馒头”
Pinyin: Sǔn sī mántou, guǒ zhēng mántou, bōcài guǒzi mántou, qībǎo suān xiàn, jiāng táng là xiàn, táng xiàn mántou”
*Attempted Translation: Shredded bamboo shoots steamed bun, wraped and steamed buns, spinach and fruit steamed buns, seven treasure sour fillings, ginger and sugar spice filings steamed buns
Su Shi, famous Song Dynasty port and also known to be a gastronome, dedicated a poem to the vegetable. Spinach, having tenacious vitality and not withering in the winter cold making it easy to cultivate seemed to be in the heart of Su Shi’s poem about spinach. He appreciated spinach by using a simile calling the “spinach under snow” as strong as an “iron armor”.
《菠菜》 (Spinach)
北方苦寒今未已，雪底菠菱如铁甲。
Pinyin: Běifāng kǔhán jīn wèi yǐ, xuě dǐ bō líng rú tiějiǎ.
*Attempted translation: The bitter cold in the north is not over yet, and the spinach in snow bottom is like iron armor
Few dynasties later during the Qing dynasty, Emperor Qianlong was also known to enjoy spinach. There is a legend that when Qianlong made a secret visit to the south of the Yangtze River, he was robbed. Hungry and parched, Qianlong was lucky to be sheltered by poor farmers. The lady farmer dug up some spinach from her field and made some spinach and tofu stew for the emperor. Qianlong was pleasantly surprised by the delicious taste of the spinach. The pinkish-red towards the roots of the spinach reminded him of parrots and hence nicknamed it “parrot vegetable”.
Post-dynasties and turbulent times in Chinese history, China produces a large variety and quantity of vegetables for its massive population. With mass agricultural production, roles have been reversed. China now grows 90 percent of the world’s spinach. Meanwhile, Nepal imports more than Rs 160 million worth of Spinach every year. The spinach seeds gifted by Nepal during the Tang Dynasty are credited for the evolution of spinach from an exclusive to the imperial court to now a staple vegetable in daily consumption by Chinese households and an integral part of their food culture.
*** The summarized version of the article appears in The Kathmandu Post dated 29th April, 2023 A.D. ****
*Attempted translation - It is only a rough translation and not the final one. Upon further consultation, when we have the final translation we will re-upload it on this post*.